In the January-February issue of De Vinis (the official publication of the Association of Italian Sommeliers), ex-president of the Italian Appellation Commission Ezio Rivella proposes looser appellation laws to help Italian wines compete on the international market.
“The appellation shouldn’t have anything to do with the grape varieties nor should it specify the percentages of a given grape. This will allow producers express themselves and to personalize their wines,” said Rivella in the recently published interview. The obsession with creating rigid appellation laws is an Italian abberation and it doesn’t enhance quality because it has to take into account producers who are less capable,” he explained.
For example, he proposes a new appellation called simply “Montalcino,” whereby producers could use “all the best grapes that grow on their land.”
And in what was perhaps the most provocative statement, Rivella suggested that “Barbera and Syrah could be used in Barolo, quality levels would certainly be increased.”
Polemical and provocative words from the Italian Appellation Commission’s ex-president.