VinoWire contributor Tom Hyland shares tasting notes from the fall issue of his “Guide to Italian Wines.” To receive a complete copy or to subscribe, please email Tom at firstname.lastname@example.org.
This past May, I attended the Alba Wines Exhibition, a series of tastings to show the new releases of Barolo and Barbaresco. The new vintage of Barbaresco is 2005, which is a very good to excellent vintage, but one that will suffer in comparison to 2004. That was an outstanding vintage with impressive fruit concentration and excellent aging potential. The offerings of Barbaresco from 2005 do not have the depth of fruit of 2004, but otherwise they are on a similar quality level. The wines have beautiful structure for mid-long term aging (7-12 years) and have lively acidity and nicely defined bright fruit. While these are not powerhouse wines that immediately jump out of the glass, they are well made and generally nicely balanced. Again, there are a few too many examples of Barbaresco that are quite oaky with noticeable bitter tannins. This is clearly an approach by certain estates not only to make a more modern wine (which admittedly some people like, but I usually do not) as well as an attempt to make a “bigger” Barbaresco, perhaps aiming to produce a Barolo. Whatever the reason, it would be nice if these producers cut back a bit on the oak and worried more about terroir than ripeness.
Regardless, the quality of the 2005 Barbarescos is quite high — enjoy!
Beautiful deep garnet with aromas of red cherry, strawberry and red spice. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Graceful wine with elegant tannins, big fruit persistence and lively acidity. Big, beautifully structured wine that should age well for 12-15 years. Another outstanding wine by this underrated producer.
Domenico Filippino “Sorì Capelli”
Deep garnet with aromas of red cherry, bacon and cumin. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Elegantly styled with lovely balance. Polished tannins, bright fruit and lively acidity with excellent fruit persistence. Hints of currant and red spice in the finish. Wonderful finesse- enjoy this in 7- 10 years.
Cascina Morassino “Morassino”
Brilliant garnet color with a lovely nose — aromas of fresh cherry, sandalwood, coriander and orange peel. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Rich midpalate backed by a lengthy finish with young tannins and lively acidity. Excellent fruit persistence. Give time — best in 7-10 years — perhaps longer.