Recently tasted: Tom Hyland on Campania

VinoWire contributor Tom Hyland shares his recent Campania tasting notes. To subscribe to Tom’s newsletter and to receive his complete tasting notes, send him an email at thwinewriter@comcast.net.

CAMPANIA

MASTROBERARDINO • ATRIPALDA
This winery needs no introduction – this is the most historic winery of Campania and continues to produce beautifully crafted white and red wines from indigenous varieties such as Greco, Fiano and Aglianico.

2007 FIANO DI AVELLINO “RADICI”
Bright yellow with aromas of geranium, pear and lilac. Medium-full with very good concentration. Very good fruit persistence and a well balanced finish with lively acidity. This will improve with some time. Best in 3-5 years. ****

2007 GRECO DI TUFO “NOVA SERRA”
Straw-light yellow with lovely aromas of pear, chamomile and lemon peel. Medium-full with very good concentration. Beautiful texture on the mid-palate and a long finish with excellent fruit persistence and lively acidity and a distinct note of minerality. Best in 3-5 years. ****

2004 TAURASI “RADICI”
This is the winery’s most famous wine; the word Radici means “roots” in Italian and refers to the producer’s dedication to the history and tradition of the grapes of this region. 100% Aglianico. Bright ruby red with aromas of bitter chocolate, spiced cherry and herbal tea. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Lengthy finish with excellent fruit persistence, lively acidity, youthful, but refined tannins and a note of pepper in the finish. Another first-rate bottling of this wine! This should have no problem aging well for 15-20 years and it will probably drink well for a few years after that. *****

Imported by Winebow, Montvale, NJ

VILLA DIAMANTE • MONTEFREDANE

2006 FIANO DI AVELLINO “VIGNA DELLA CONGREGAZIONE”
Medium yellow with intense aromas of chamomile tea, lemon oil, banana peel and orange blossom. Aged entirely in stainless steel. Full-bodied with outstanding concentration. Lengthy finish with excellent fruit persistence, lively acidity and notes of saffron and minerality in the finish. I have tasted the 2005 and now 2006 versions of this wine from this new producer and it is for me the finest bottling of Fiano di Avellino I have ever had. Owner and winemaker Antoine Gaita, a native of Belgium, deserves congratulations for this truly outstanding wine! Best in 5-7 years. *****

2004 AGLIANICO (IGT Irpinia Rosso)
Deep bright ruby red with aromas of bitter chocolate, black cherry and nutmeg. Medium-full with very good concentration. Rich finish with lively acidity and polished tannins. Best in 5-7 years. ****

TERREDORA • MONTEFUSCO

2007 FALANGHINA (Irpinia DOC)
Bright light yellow with aromas of lemon rind, apple peel and magnolias. Medium-bodied with fresh, tasty lemony fruit backed by lively acidity. Clean finish with a note of lemon oil. Enjoy over the next 1-2 years – best fresh. ***

2007 GRECO DI TUFO “LOGGIA DELLA SERRA”
Brilliant, deep yellow with golden tints. Lovely aromas of lemon peel, quince and lillies. Medium-full with very good concentration. Lengthy finish with very good fruit persistence, lively acidity and a light touch of minerality. Nicely styled, this should improve with a bit of time. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. ****

2007 FIANO DI AVELLINO “TERRE DI DORA”
Brilliant, deep yellow with golden tints. Lovely aromas of Meyer lemon, magnolia and kiwi. Medium-full with very good concentration. Lengthy finish with very good fruit persistence, vibrant acidity and distinct minerality Very good ripeness and lovely texture. Nicely styled, this should improve with a bit of time. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years – ideal with clams or crab. *****

Imported by Vias Wines, New York, NY

LUIGI MAFFINI • CASTELLABATE

2007 KRATOS
100% Fiano. Deep yellow with aromas of lemon rind, magnolia and a hint of saffron. Medium-full with very good concentration. Nice intensity on the palate and a lengthy finish with excellent fruit persistence and lively acidity. Best in 3-5 years. ****

2006 PIETRAINCATENATA
100% Fiano fermented in new barriques for six months. Deep yellow with a hint of gold. Beautiful aromas of mango, honey, almond and vanilla. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Wonderful complexity. Rich finish with lively acidity. Best in 3-5 years. **** I also tried the 2004 Pietraincatenata with Luigi and was impressed by its spice and intensity. Now-2 or 3 years. *****

2005 CENITO (Cilento DOC)
100% Aglianico. Deep purple with aromas of ripe black cherry, cacao and a hint of tobacco. Medium-full with very good concentration. Youthful tannins that are balanced and good acidity. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. ****

Imported by Panebianco, New York, NY

FEUDI DI SAN GREGORIO • SORBO SERPICO
This is one of Campania’s most visible wineries and one that really changed the face of Campanian winemaking. Recently the winery began production on classical method sparkling wines from local indigenous varieties, Aglianico, Greco and Falanghina. Named DUBL, these are made in conjunction with the noted Champagne producer Jacques Selosses and are very impressive. Overall, this winery had one of the most impressive collections of wine I tasted this year at VinItaly.

2005 DUBL FALANGHINA (Vino Spumante)
Light yellow with aromas of golden apple, pear, lemon peel and biscuit. Medium-full with very good concentration. Lively acidity and very good fruit persistence along with a persistent stream of bubbles. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. ***

2005 DUBL AGLIANICO
Bright garnet-strawberry color with a steady stream of bubbles. Aromas of cherry and a hint of pepper. Medium-full with very good concentration. Nice richness and fruit character. Very good fruit persistence and lively acidity. Beautifully styled. Best in 3-5 years. ****

2004 DUBL GRECO
Light yellow with exotic aromas of lemon peel and hyacinth. Medium-bodied with very good concentration. Rich finish with good acidity and a light earthiness. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. ***

2007 FALANGHINA “SERROCIELO” (DOC Sannio Falanghina)
This is a new wine for Feudi, a single vineyard Falanghina – the name means “where the sky closes.” Deep yellow with aromas of lemon and white peach. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Rich mid-palate and lovely texture with a long finish with vibrant acidity. This will improve with time – best in 3-5 years. Very impressive! ****

2007 FIANO DI AVELLINO “PIETRACALDA” (DOCG)
Another of Feudi’s most celebrated bottlings, this is Fiano that has been harvested later than normal, but is finished dry. Light yellow with aromas of apricot, white peach and a note of honey. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Layers of flavor on the palate and lovely texture. Big finish with lively acidity and notes of minerality. This is a remarkable example of Fiano di Avellino that is far removed from the winery’s regular bottling in terms of style. This is enjoyable now, but will only improve; it should offer beautiful drinking pleasure for 7-10 years! *****

2007 GRECO DI TUFO “CUTIZZI” (DOCG)
This wine is produced from Greco grapes from the beautiful Cutizzi vineyard in the commune of Santa Paolina. Straw-light yellow with aromas of lemon oil and chamomile. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Generous mid-palate, loads of fresh fruit and lively acidity. Light minerality in the lengthy finish. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. ****

2006 CAMPANARO (IGT Campania Bianco)
A blend of Greco and Fiano grapes. Deep yellow with a touch of gold. Aromas of green tea, chamomile and Macintosh apple. Medium-full with very good concentration. Nice texture on the mid-palate and a lengthy finish with lively acidity and very good fruit persistence. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. ****

2006 ROS’AURA DEL FEUDI (IGT Beneventano Rosato)
100% Aglianico. Deep strawberry color with aromas of strawberry, pear and a light hint of chocolate. Medium-bodied with fresh, tasty cherry fruit. Good fruit persistence and lively acidity. Nicely made – I think that the finest rosés in Italy are made from the Aglianico grape. Enjoy over the next 1-2 years. ***

2005 RUBRATO (IGT Campania Aglianico)
100% Aglianico; as this has not been aged for three years, it cannot be labeled as a Taurasi, thus it is a Campania Aglianico. Beautiful bright ruby red with aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate and caramel. Medium-full with very good concentration. Vibrant acidity, refined tannins and very subtle oak. Nicely styled and well made. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. ****

2000 TAURASI “PIANO DI MONTEVERGINE” (DOCG)
Deep ruby red with aromas of bitter black cherry, raspberry and vanilla. Medium-full to full-bodied with excellent concentration. Layers of flavor with tightly packed fruit and an explosive finish with young tannins, excellent fruit persistence and good acidity. This is a beautiful, rich expression of Taurasi with a great future ahead of it! Best in 12-15 years. *****

2005 SERPICO (IGT Irpinia Aglianico)
100% Aglianico. Bright purple with fruit that just jumps out of the glass – aromas of black cherry, black chocolate and vanilla. Medium-full with very good concentration. Great fruit persistence and young tannins. This needs time, as it is a bit astringent on the finish now, but this will round out and drink beautifully for 7-10 years – perhaps a bit longer. ****

Imported by Palm Bay Imports, Port Washington, NY

MARISA CUOMO – CANTINE GRAN FUROR • FURORE
If only for the work done by this estate, I would rate it at a special Italian winery, but it is the quality of the wines made here that make this one of the country’s finest as well as most distinctive. Marisa Cuomo and her husband Andrea Ferraioli, who serves as winemaker, (see cover photo) have been producing first-rate white, rosé and red wines from their estate in the stunningly gorgeous town of Furore in the Amalfi Coast since 1980. As with most Campanian wine estates, the focus is on indigenous varieties; here the couple works with such rarely seen ones as Biancolella, Fenile and Ginestra as well as the more recognized Aglianico, Piedirosso and Falanghina. These are intensely flavored wines with vibrant acidity and are as good a collection of coastal Campanian wines as there are today. A special thank you to Marisa and Andrea for their continuing work with these remarkable wines!

2007 RAVELLO BIANCO
The couple also purchases grapes from vineyards in the nearby town of Ravello. A blend of 60% Falanghina and 40% Biancolella. Light yellow with aromas of lemon peel, white flowers and pear. Medium-full with very good concentration. Lively acidity and a nicely structured finish with a touch of minerality. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. ****

2007 FURORE BIANCO
A blend of 60% Falanghina and 40% Biancolella. Bright yellow with aromas of white peach, lemon oil and white flowers. Medium-full with very good concentration. Excellent fruit persistence and a lengthy finish with lively acidity. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. ****

2007 FURORE BIANCO “FIORDUVA”
A blend of 30% Fenile, 30% Ginestra and 40% Ripoli. Deep yellow with exotic aromas of white peach, lemon oil, magnolias, fennel and a note of almond. Medium-full to full-bodied with excellent concentration. Great fruit persistence and a lengthy finish with vibrant acidity and distinct minerality. This is the most celebrated wine from the estate and is one of Italy’s most distinctive whites. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. *****

2007 COSTA D’AMALFI ROSATO
A blend of 60% Aglianico and 40% Piedirosso. Deep garnet/cherry color with aromas of dried herbs and cherry. Medium-full with very good concentration. Dry finish with a distinct earthiness. Enjoy over the next 1-2 years. ***

2007 FURORE ROSSO
A blend of 50% Piedirosso and 50% Aglianico. Deep garnet with aromas of black cherry, licorice and a hint of tobacco. Medium-bodied with good concentration. Earthy finish with tart acidity and soft tannins. Bright, fresh fruit- quite tasty. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. ***

2005 FURORE ROSSO RISERVA
A blend of 50% Piedirosso and 50% Aglianico aged for 12 months in barriques. Deep ruby red with aromas of black cherry, tar, licorice and vanilla. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Nicely structured finish with lively acidity, finely tuned tannins and very good fruit persistence. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. ****

2005 RAVELLO ROSSO RISERVA
A blend of 70% Piedirosso and 30% Aglianico aged in barriques. Aromas of black raspberry, black cherry and violets. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Nicely structured finish with vibrant acidity, polished tannins and notable black spice notes. Delicious fruit and subtle oak. Beautifully styled. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. *****

Imported by Panebianco, New York, NY

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2 thoughts on “Recently tasted: Tom Hyland on Campania

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  2. Hello webmaster. This is all about taste. I completely agree with you regarding “Recently tasted: Tom Hyland on Campania”, but I think you are in the thin line of thinling. Don’t you? Maybe you can try chocolate expressions

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