Giacomo Tachis proposes abolition of Italian appellation system

Legendary Italian winemaker Giacomo Tachis made waves in the Italian eno-blogosphere this week when he suggested that the Italian wine appellation system should be overhauled or even abandoned.

“It’s time to open our minds because the appellations are balderdash,” said the creator of some of Italy’s most famous cult wines, using a more colorful word in an interview granted to WineNews.it. The appellations in the Italian system, observed the “babbo del Sassicaia” or father of Sassicia, were “invented by someone who does not understand wine… I, myself, contributed to the expansion [of the appellation system] when I understood less about wine.”

When asked whether or not the Italians should borrow from the French system, Tachis responded “dryly”: “we have nothing to learn from the French… We were the ones who brought Cabernet Sauvignon to France. So, what can we learn from them? We need to use our brains more and be more realistic than the French.”

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3 thoughts on “Giacomo Tachis proposes abolition of Italian appellation system

  1. Pingback: Down and out in Beverly Hills (but still drinking well) « Do Bianchi

  2. Even though the frases said by Giacomo Tachis most probably are excerps from more articulated sentences, I am actually rather not surprised that he actually states that the denomination of origin for wines are BS.Giacomo Tachis has been rightly considered a father figure for Tuscan winemaking and back in the 60’s started crafting wines that were later to become the very benchmarks of quality for the region.The very idea of “wine of origin”has been until quite recently a very relative subject due to a commercial interpretation of the concept whereas wines more than to a rigid disciplinary put down in writing, had to reach a minimum quality requirement effectively approved, even today by a tasting panel of the chamber of commerce, regardless of what or where the wines effectively come from and nothing more.This might sound a bit shocking but with this in mind the Brunello scandal can be fully understood and takes on a slightly different perspective.The problem that stands even today is to be able to make wines of origin objectively provably so, without which proof, claims of denominazione di origine controllata e GARANTITA are indeed laughable.
    I’m sure that when a new generation of winemakers, critics and consumers become more aware of this and manage to recognize and appreciate the real taste and value of terroir,things will change but only prior the elimination of the weakest link regarding the certification, that is the real problem, for any wine of origin, worldwide.If this were not possible well indeed…le denominazione di origine sono sì tutte palle…

  3. I don’t know if DOC & DOCG are BS, but I know that even if the Italian gave the Cabernet Sauvignon to the French (which I am quite curious about), I know for sure that there was not any cabernet in Bolgheri when Sassicaia started, and that its founder confessed at the time he was a Bordeaux fan.
    And even if M. Tachis doesn’t like Bordeaux, maybe he could be inspired by the way Burgundy can make great reds out of one original grape, pinot noir.
    Doesn’t this remind you of another grape called Brunello?

    Plase don’t throw away the baby with the bath water. DOC & DOCG surely have their faults, but how does Tachis suggest we should protect our (his) wien heritage?

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