DOCs & DOCGs Are Meaningless if Everyone Has One

Alfonso Cevola has posted an updated list of current DOCGs on his blog here.

Some very instructive news has come to my attention via the website Cronache di Gusto by Fabrizio Carrera who writes from Palermo.

As you can read here in a press release posted on the ministry’s website, I have discovered that Italy’s new agricultural minister, Saverio Romano, who is also from Sicily, and the National Wine Committee are doing “particularly splendid job during a period that has seen the prestige and value of our wines grow in the world. I’ve also learned that the ministry has approved yet another wave of new and useless DOCs and DOCGs, issued by the committee when it met on September 14 and 15.

According to the statement, the committee deliberated and approved “17 requests for accreditations and modifications for DOCG, DOC, and IGT appellation regulations in a variety of Italian regions. It has completed its operational program as established at the beginning of its mandate, complying with its institutional function with a concrete impact on the wine industry, a sector with major importance for the economy and culture of the country [Italy].”

In another press release issued by Fedagri-Confcooperative (the Italian confederation of farmers and farming cooperatives), “with these deliberations, the National Wine Committee has fulfilled its two-year task of reviewing and approving nearly 300 applications to change existing DOs [Protected Designations of Origin] and the accreditation of new IGTs, DOCs, and DOCGs.”

“An impressive accomplishment,” added the body’s president Maurizio Gardini, “under the able direction of [the committee’s] president Giuseppe Martelli.”

And so we can rest assured that no one has been denied a DOC or DOCG. Indeed, they have been handed out by the kilo, according to the “logic” (if it can be defined as such) that everyone is entitled to these designations. And its all thanks to the inestimable leader of Italian enology Giuseppe Martelli and Italy’s new agriculture minister, Saverio Romano, leader of the Populars of Italy Tomorrow party, who is currently under investigation for mafia association and corruption.

—Franco Ziliani

Franco Biondi Santi expresses opposition to proposed changes in Montalcino

“Three years ago I was in favor of the addition of softening wines or grapes to Sangiovese for Rosso di Montalcino,” said Biondi Santi in a phone interview today with VinoWire editor Franco Ziliani, who quotes the signore del Brunello on his blog Vino al Vino. “Today, things have changed and my position is no to any change to the appellation.”

Currently proposed changes would allow producers to blend grapes other than Sangiovese into their Rosso di Montalcino. The changes, he noted, would allow producers to transform 500 hectares of unsellable Sant’Antimo and IGT Toscana into Rosso di Montalcino.

“We would enter into the same thicket as 1966,” said Biondi Santi, “when the appellation ‘Vino Rosso dai Vigneti di Brunello’ was created.” [editor’s note: this appellation was changed to Rosso di Montalcino fifteen years later] “In the fall of 1966, Montalcino was obligated to found the Brunello Consortium, which became operative on January 1, 1967, with my father. After three months of negotiations with other producers, we decided not to enter the consortium because we strongly disapproved of how it was taking advantage of an equivocation at the time: the grape variety was also called Brunello and it was considered a subvariety of Sangiovese! Therefore, a no is indispensable in order to clarify.”

Giacosa ends historic relationship with Wine Bow

Source: Drinks Media Wire.

NAPA, Calif. – Folio Fine Wine Partners, a Michael Mondavi family-owned company that represents specially selected wines from the great winegrowing regions of the world, announced today that it will be the new United States importer for the critically acclaimed Italian wine producer, Bruno Giacosa, effective January 1, 2012.

“We are honored to represent the Giacosa wines in the U.S. and look forward to working with the Giacosa family for years to come,” said Michael Mondavi, founder, Folio Fine Wine Partners. “They truly are one of the best producers in Italy—and the world—and their wines will be a wonderful addition to our portfolio, which includes other top winemaking families from around the world.”

“We are confident that Michael, his family and the Folio team will be able to take our business to the next level in the U.S.,” said Bruna Giacosa. “We have always respected the Mondavi family and believe they bring a unique perspective to our business, as an importer and a producer. Folio is a young and dynamic company but the collective industry experience of their team is deep.”

Bruno Giacosa was born in 1929 in Neive, the village where the Giacosa winery is located. He learned how to make the great wines of Piedmont—Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto and Barbera—at an early age from his father and grandfather. Since the 1960s, he has been recognized as a leading winemaker in the region and the Giacosa wines are often lauded by critics as some of the finest examples of the classic Piedmont varietals.

Today, the family legacy continues with his daughter, Bruna Giacosa. Bruna, who has worked by her father’s side since she was a student, oversees the management of the family business.

Beginning in January 2012, Folio Fine Wine Partners will import the following Giacosa wines: Barbaresco Asili DOCG, Barbaresco Asili Riserva DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG, Barbaresco Santo Stefano DOCG, Barbera d’Alba DOC, Barbera d’Alba Falletto DOC, Barolo DOCG, Barolo Falletto DOCG, Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto DOCG, Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto Riserva DOCG, Dolcetto d’Alba DOC, Dolcetto d’Alba Falletto DOC, Dolcetto d’Alba Sorano DOC, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore DOC, Roero Arneis DOCG, Spumante Extra Brut, Spumante Extra Brut Rose.

Folio Fine Wine Partners was founded in 2004 by Michael Mondavi and his wife, Isabel, with their children, Dina and Rob, who oversees winegrowing operations for the company. Folio is an importer, fine wine agency and producer of quality wines from the world’s premiere and emerging wine regions. Folio provides sales, marketing and public relations services to wine brands from California, Argentina, Italy, Austria, Germany and Spain.

The Giacosa family has been making wine in the Langhe region of Piedmont for three generations. The Giacosa property covers 37 acres that are entirely cultivated to vines. The altitude of the estate, its south/south-west exposure, and the microclimate combine to create optimal winegrowing conditions. Giacosa makes wine using estate-grown fruit under the “Azienda Agricola Falletto di Bruno Giacosa” label, and wine from grapes purchased from growers that the family has worked with for more than 30 years under the “Casa Vinicola Bruna Giacosa” label. In the vineyards, yields are kept intentionally low (less than 2.5 tons per acre) to concentrate the flavors in the fruit. The winemaking methods employed are scrupulous and traditional without ignoring the benefits of modern techniques.